Welcome to the next segment of my How To series… each segment of the series will tackle a category of makeup and cover how to properly apply each one. For you beauty gurus out there this may be old news, but I’m hoping this will be helpful for beginners or those who have always dreaded makeup application. Stay tuned as we work our way over the whole face!
Today’s topic is concealer, and we will cover the basics of formulation and application.
The consistency of concealers can range from thinner formulas to thicker versions that are almost paste-like. Concealers can be found in squeezable tubes, small bottles with doe foot applicators, compacts containing cake formulas, and twistable sticks.
Choose a consistency that suits your preferences, but in general I would suggest a thicker formula for spot concealing and a thinner one for dark circles or pigmentation. In most cases, the same consistencies and shades should not be used over all areas of the face and this is a common concealer mistake.
A thick concealer will look heavy and makeup-ey if used under the eyes, so I would suggest a concealer that has a thinner texture and is a shade or two lighter than your skin tone to add brightness under the eyes.
On the same token, a concealer that is lighter than your skin tone will draw unnecessary attention to a spot or blemish. For spot concealing I would choose a concealer that is an exact match and has a thicker formulation to reduce fading and wear.
For this reason I always have a rotation of at least two concealers in my makeup bag, so I have something suitable for every purpose.
To conceal dark spots under the eyes, choose a non-drying concealer in a shade or two lighter than your skin tone. For a natural look, apply the concealer just to the area of darkness… for a slightly more highlighted look, apply the concealer in a upside down triangle shape below the eye. Pat the concealer in with your fingers or a beauty sponge.
A beauty sponge is my personal choice for under eye concealer, although I will happily use my fingertips in a pinch. Be sure to gently pat the concealer into the skin. This will avoid pulling on the sensitive under eye area, and will also prevent moving or shifting your concealer.
To spot conceal, use your clean fingers or a small pencil brush. Fingers are a great option for thicker concealers, as the warmth from your fingertips will soften the concealer and help blending. Again, remember to pat the concealer on to the blemish… never rub!
A pencil brush provides the most precise method of spot concealing, and is often used by professionals. The small brush tip makes it possible to apply the concealer to the spot only, while leaving the rest of the base undisturbed.
Color correcting has been around for many years, but has recently become quite the craze in the beauty world! Color correcting is based on the science of the color wheel… meaning you should reach for a concealer in the color opposite the shade you are trying to camouflage.
For example, if you have purple shadows under the eyes you would reach for a peach colored corrector, because peach is opposite purple on the color wheel. If you have red pigmentation or spots, you would select a green corrector… green is opposite red!
Of course, you would go over any color correcting with a concealer in your skin tone to disguise any colored shading that may be left behind.
I hope you enjoyed these little tips for the perfect concealer application! If you have any suggestions for concealers and correctors, either formulas or application, please comment! I would love to hear!